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June 18, 2021
This is Kristin from @isewbestaftermidnight (link: https://www.instagram.com/isewbestaftermidnight/) and I’m excited to be back on the blog talking about my double gauze jumpsuit. I’ve seen gauze ready-to-wear clothing popping up for spring and summer at several retailers, and I especially loved this jumpsuit at Gap (link: Gauze Jumpsuit | Gap). But I knew I could make one that fit better and was better-made, and the double gauze currently in the shop was perfect to execute my vision.
The Fabric: The double gauze in olive green (link: https://raspberrycreekfabrics.com/search?type=product&q=gauze*) is heavenly for wearing in warmer weather. It is lightweight and breathes well enough for staying cool, but it isn’t see-through. It has gorgeous drape, yet it is stable enough to sew up easily. The best part is that it is incredibly soft and (dare I say it) almost squishy. Like wearing a cloud. This jumpsuit is the most comfortable item in my whole wardrobe, maybe even more than my pajamas and loungewear!
Don’t let the fact that it is gauze scare you. I’ve sewn with other gauze fabrics (purchased elsewhere) that are thin, lightweight, frustrating to sew, rip easily, and fall apart after sewing. This double gauze is nothing like those other gauze fabrics. It was much easier to sew up, especially with these few tips:
Sewing with Double Gauze: One of the best things about double gauze is the beautiful texture, but to preserve that texture when sewing, I found a few helpful tips. First is the fabric preparation. I always prewash my fabrics, and this double gauze was no exception. The texture tightened right up after a good wash and dry. I’m afraid if you don’t prewash before sewing, your finished garment could shrink as that texture tightens up. I usually iron my fabrics after washing as well, but ironing will get rid of the texture and stretch out the fabric. I did have a few creases to get out after washing and folding the fabric, so I used a cool iron with a press cloth and used a light touch to gently dab the creases out. I also used this same method when ironing the seams as I sewed.
Second, be careful when cutting the fabric. The texture can cause the fabric to stretch out, and you want to avoid stretching when you cut. I made sure to use a new, sharp rotary blade and plenty of pattern weights (aka, cans of tomato sauce!) to keep the pattern pieces and fabric stable while cutting.
Third, sew slowly so as not to stretch the fabric out as you sew. I don’t have a walking foot for my sewing machine, but I’ve heard that is helpful to avoid stretching, so use one if you have it. I found that pinning well and going slowly was enough. Though it is a woven fabric, due to the stretch, I also used the same settings on my serger (to finish the raw edges) as I use when sewing knits.
The Pattern: I used the Zadie Jumpsuit pattern from Paper Theory Patterns (link here: https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/zadie-jumpsuit-pdf-pattern), which I have been wanting to try for ages. The Zadie is well-loved by seamstresses the world over, and I can see why. The longest part for me was printing, taping, and tracing the pattern. The actual sewing was relatively fast and the instructions were very straightforward. The only change I made to the pattern was to do a band rather than binding on the neckline – the double gauze was too thick for making double fold bias tape as the pattern calls for, so I just folded the neckband in half, sewed it to the neckline right sides together with a small seam allowance, then I finished off the raw edge with my serger and tucked it inside the neckline. I may eventually decide to topstitch around the neckline to keep the seam allowance inside, but for now, it has stayed without needing to be topstitched.
As for the fit, I sewed my size based on my measurements. However, the pattern has generous ease and I found it to have too much ease for my personal taste, so I will probably size down one size for my next one (and there will definitely be a next one!)
Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’ll be wearing this jumpsuit all day every day this summer. I hope give double gauze a try if you haven’t already!
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