Custom Rayon Challis Aria with Mary of Sew Mary Mac

May 12, 2022 2 Comments

Hi sewing friends, Mary here from the Sew Mary Mac blog.  I’m so excited to be back on the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Blog!  This week I want to talk about two of my  most favorite things:  Lobster and RCF rayon challis.

I LOVE rayon challis, but especially RCF rayon challis.  When the new Patriotic line  was released, I saw the Grunge Lobster print and I knew I needed it.  I promptly ordered it in cotton/lycra, French terry and rib knit.  But that wasn’t enough, I “needed” it on my favorite base, rayon challis.

So first, let’s talk about how I got my lobsters printed on rayon challis~ then we’ll talk more about rayon challis.

Raspberry Creek Fabrics now offers custom fabric printing.  There are two ways you can order custom printed fabrics.

1. Use the Design Library (just look for the tab on the homepage) and select any of the prints there.  The Design Library is filled with an amazing collection of fabric designs from previous lines.
2. Use a custom design that you have created on your own or one you have purchased.

I’m going to walk you through the process of ordering a custom design.  Since the Grunge Lobster is part of a current line, Diana sent me the seamless file for the print. (This would be the same as a file you created or purchased.)

Click on  Custom Fabric Printing

    Read and checkoff the copyright boxes

Upload your Image/file

Click choose file and upload.  It will then appear into the square 

Adjust Scale

    Your design will appear in the size it was originally designed

    You can adjust your design scale to be larger or smaller

    Make sure to use the ruler scale on the border to help you decide

    If you change the scale, make sure to hit SET

I wanted my lobsters to be a tad smaller than the original design, so I changed the scale from 12 to 10.  On the left you can see the lobster design in the original size.  On the right is the rayon challis with the smaller scale print.

Choose Your Fabric Type and Yardage

    Use the drop down menu to select your fabric base.

    Can you believe there are 25 different ones to choose from!

    Add the yardage amount you want.  Remember that 1=½ yard

If you start with the Design Library you would follow the same steps, except your design is already uploaded for you.  You would follow all the other steps.  How easy is that!  Now I want to order all my favorite designs on rayon challis!  Now lets talk about rayon challis,

What is Rayon Challis?

Rayon Challis is a man-made fabric made from natural fibers.  It’s lightweight, flowy, soft and it’s amazingly comfortable to wear.  It’s the perfect fabric for summer garments!    Why is RCF rayon challis so special?  RCF rayon challis simply isn’t as “shifty” as some rayons can be.  Thus making it a dream to cut and sew.  It truly is one of my most favorite fabrics to sew.  If you’ve never sewn with rayon before~ RCF rayon challis is the best place to start.

Tips for Sewing with Rayon Challis

If your fabric has a design printed on a white or very light background, consider having plain white rayon challis on hand.  My red lobsters would have shown through on my back yoke.  I always have a few yards of the plain white rayon challis from the shop on hand.  I used the solid white for the yoke lining so I didn’t have any “show through”. (I have also used the solid white for linings)

When cutting out "shifty" fabrics such as rayon- make sure NOT to let your fabric hang off your cutting table. The weight of the hanging fabric pulls on the fabric and can result in your pattern pieces being distorted.

Try not to over handle your cut pieces.  Rayons can stretch easily if you aren’t careful.  Stay stitching helps to prevent this.  Don’t skip this step in your tutorial.

Consider using Knit tricot interfacing for rayons.  Knit tricot interfacing gives the rayon the  stabilization  needed on the collar and front band without making them overly stiff.

How many times have you cut out your collars and facings , only to have them not match up to your interfacing when you go to fuse them together?  Any lightweight fabric, like rayon challis can shift before you get a chance to interface them.  Steaming and applying interfacing can often shrink your fabric pieces, which in turn prevents them from fitting correctly when pinning the collar to your shirt. The best way to prevent this is to block fuse. 

What is block fusing? Block fusing is a garment industry technique that can make home sewing so much easier!  Your interfaced pieces will turn much more accurate which is so important when working with collars.  

Block fusing is the process of cutting a block of fabric and interfacing at the same size.  The two are then fused together.  Follow these simple steps.

• Cut a block of fabric and interfacing the same size.
• Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.  Use lots of steam.  It’s a good idea to use a press cloth as well.  Remember to press and lift the iron~ do not slide the iron.
• Press the right side of the fabric as well.
• Cut the pattern pieces that require interfacing.
• Now you have perfectly accurate pieces to sew with

Remember to always lay out ALL of your pattern pieces first before cutting away a block to fuse.  I like to mark out the area I will need for my interfaced pieces with chalk.

You can find the pattern HERE.

If you’d like, you can read more about my sewing adventures on my blog, Sew Mary Mac.  You  can also follow me  on Instagram  @sewmarymac to see all of my makes.

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