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October 25, 2025
Hello fellow sewists, happy impending holidays! And for those of us in the northern hemisphere, I am extra thrilled to bring you a cool-weather garment idea (and hopefully some helpful hints) for sewing your wintry flannel projects.

I love flannel for both its softness and warmth, and I’ve found that the Robert Kaufman flannel carried by Raspberry Creek is absolutely the best! Numerous and gorgeous plaid designs, a heftier weight, and all sorts of colorways to tempt your palate abound.

I adore a warm shacket or bold pajama pants in flannel as much as anybody else, but I thought venturing away from the most obvious selections would be a fun endeavor. Since I love the feel of flannel against bare skin, I chose a more elegant and blouse-like top to show off this grey and cream Mammoth flannel, plus it will easily layer underneath a cardigan, hooray! This is the About Town Popover Shirt from Pattern Emporium, and it’s great because it includes a collar, clever integrated cuff, and overall look of a button-up shirt minus all the closures!

Of course, when working with plaid I find it nearly impossible to skip some pretty bias cut details! For this version, I included bias cut pockets and the top collar as a fun way to arrange the design.

Both sides are the right side on many RK flannels, so be sure you keep track by transferring any pattern marks and choose a consistent “right” side so you don’t end up with two left sleeves, etc.

Because flannel is a looser weave and cutting fabric on the bias often allows fabric to grow or distort easily off-grain, I highly recommend adding fusible tricot (or similar very lightweight fusible interfacing generally recommended for knit) to maintain softness and floppy drape as well as to assist in holding the proper shape. It seems a little strange, but works incredibly well!

Another helpful suggestion I can offer for flannel is to increase your tension just a little bit to scooch the fabric together under the presser foot, or even attach your walking foot if you have one. While sewing like this, you’re basically gathering the fabric just a tiny amount, but in this case you are creating a smooth, even stitch line, which is absolutely paramount for matching plaids at the seams. I do the same adjustments for my serger when I finish the raw edges, particularly at the edges that become hems at the bodice or sleeves. Otherwise these loose raw edges can easily grow and distort when you try to neatly turn them under to topstitch, and nobody likes dealing with that problem so close to the finish line.

Similarly, bias cut pockets are not always cooperative and frequently need added stability to sit nicely (and stay properly rectangular) as they’re sewn. I use Wash Away Wonder Tape or similar for applying strips to the three topstitched pocket edges and help them stay lined up with the plaid lines on the front bodice.

Sewing friends, I wish you all the success in all your holiday (or otherwise!) flannel projects. From warm jacket linings and super-comfortable pants, through holiday dresses, flannel is such a magnificent fabric for chilly weather.
Happy sewing!
Katie
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