Cozy Flannel Dress with Alene of Alene Sews

October 28, 2021

Hello friends!

There’s something special about the change of a season and it is my absolute favorite time of year—which is why I’m so excited to share my latest project with you!

I know we all love the exclusive club prints from RCF but it’s a little known secret that the shop also carries the best selection of Robert Kaufman Flannels I’ve seen! Each is gorgeous, but I decided on this Hunter Green and Cream Khaki Tahoe flannel to make the autumnal dress of my dreams. 

This flannel is soft to the touch—even before washing. I was slightly worried about pilling and shrinkage so I washed on cold and dried on low since I’m very careful with laundering my handmade items. It softened up even more after the wash and is so cozy. In person, the flannel is definitely more blue with subtle hints of hunter/forest green which is a bit misleading from the name of this print. However, the listing photo accurately captures the colors of the fabric which is awesome!

I decided to use this flannel to make one of my all time favorite dresses—the McCalls M7969. So far I’ve made it in a drapey rayon, structured poplin and I’m ridiculously excited about this cozy flannel. It’s got plenty of body to show off these amazing sleeves! The M7969 is a favorite of the Instagram sewing community for obvious reasons but it checks all of the boxes for my ideal dress: easy fit, raglan sleeves, and visual interest. You can find this pattern where McCalls paper patterns are sold or purchase a copy or pdf online from their website.

My version is slightly different than the pattern intended as I added a couple of hacks and fitting adjustments which I’ll discuss and fully detail at the bottom of this post.

How to Add Waist Ties:

The first major change I made was adding waist ties. Here is how I made mine:

1. Cut two strips of fabric 2 and 3/8” by 30”

2. Fold each tie in half right sides together and sew across one short end and down the length with a 3/8” seam allowance, leave one end open

3. Turn out the ties and press
4. BEFORE you stitch the sides of your bodice together, sandwich the raw edge of one tie between the side seam, 5/8” from the bottom. That way you’ll be able to attach the skirt without stitching over your ties 
5. Repeat for the other side

How to Add Inseam Pockets:

The next hack I added are inseam pockets because every dress should have pockets! I free handed a template by tracing around my hand then followed these steps:

1. Cut two pairs from fabric

2. Hold skirt pattern piece and measure down to where you want the pocket to start. I placed my pockets 7” from the top of the skirt panels

3. Place one pocket piece (right sides together) on the skirt with the top of the pocket at the length you measured and raw edges meeting

4. Stitch the pocket to the skirt panel at 1/2” seam allowance

5. Press pocket piece away from skirt and repeat for the other three pieces

6. Sew the skirt panels together from top to bottom at 5/8” seam allowance, pivoting at the top of the pocket, sewing around the pocket curve and down 

7. Once completed press the pocket towards the front skirt and continue with assembly

I try not to have too large a pocket because it can get bulky but I like it large enough to fit my phone and chapstick to free up my hands.

Other fitting notes: 

- My measurements are Bust: 33” W: 27” Hips: 36” and I sewed up a size Small in View A

- Lengthened sleeves 2”

- Lengthened skirt 3”

I haven’t seen many flannel dresses around that aren’t shirt dresses but I’m really loving this combination! The flannel is so pretty and I love that it will keep me warm on cool nights without the need for too many layers.

Most of the flannel is still in stock on the Raspberry Creek Fabrics website if you’re itching to do some fall sewing that isn’t involved with a Halloween costume. I hope you’ve enjoyed and try out some flannel for your next fall project!

Until next time,

Alene

Instagram: @alenesews

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